Friday, March 20, 2015

Play and work

As always when the halfway mark is crossed, time goes fast. Last week I had some company here, and it was quite lovely! First we went to Queen Elizabeth NP, which so far I had only passed by. Compared to Murchison Falls, I’d say QENP is more beautiful landscape wise, especially as it is framed nicely by mountains. It is also more varied, with savannah, the big lakes and “channel” in between, and forest. We also took a short hike in the Rwenzori foothills and visited a community development organization which was a rather awkward experience but, if I may say so, was somewhat saved by my skills handling needy development practitioners. Thanks to an unscheduled evening drive into the park, we got to see some lions up close – they were rather sleepy, but very cute! That day we had also done a boat ride, which served up thirsty elephants, buffaloes and hippos en masse. The morning game drive was less packed with notable sightings, but very enjoyable still, just enjoying the scenery, the beautiful animals, and the wind in your face. Then, there was a forest walk including a bat cave which was very interesting and very creepy. All in all, a very cool and varied safari trip. 

Safari favorites
Back in Fort Portal we explored the town and went for a similar crater lakes/waterfall day trip as I did before but this time with my friend T rather than with a tour. Some car trouble aside, it was a lovely day with another waterfall shower, monkeys, and sweaty hiking. The last day of ‘vacation’ we visited the palace of the Tooro kingdom in FP – unfortunately the king was not in, but we got a tour outside the palace with an energetic UPDF guard.

Crater lake hike

Revisited the monkeys by lake Nkruba
Monday morning we got on different Link buses, them for Kampala, me for Bwera, and it felt a bit lonely! Bwera is near the DRC border and I went there to meet one last farmer group for a few days. It was hot as hell, I was the only muzungu in town (I did see an albino woman, so I guess it was me and her), and the place I was staying was a bit perplexing, with a lovely squat toilet, no bathroom door, no sink, and no furniture other than a bed and a plastic chair. It made me rather miss FP, where it’s not only a lot cooler but also a lot nicer atmosphere. On market day at the border I went to take a look and get some more kitenge (printed fabric usually from Congo). We tried to cross the border, but the immigration stuff was didn’t seem worth the hassle, so I just looked at Congo at a safe distance, and did some shopping at the Ugandan side. I intuitively (and for good reason I guess) feel a bit iffy about the DRC borderlands and was glad to be staying in Bwera and not the border town Mpondwe (even if Bwera is only 5 minutes away). That said, I wasn't a fan of the place. I’m used to being stared at and muzungu:ed in the villages, but there was a strange, more hostile feel, and when I weighed the pros and cons of staying the last day to do a few more interviews vs going to Kasese to join an ongoing workshop, I decided the latter as I felt the interviews were reaching saturation point anyway. Kasese was much more enjoyable, although even hotter. Now I am back “home” for one last week. When I’m not occupied with trying to wade through data and gather my thoughts about these past two months, it will probably be spent clicking phone calls from the many very persistent men who have made me give them my number..

Market in Mpondwe

In the village outside of Bwera (hostility was not an issue here, clearly)

Monday, March 2, 2015

Half-time

Lots of activity since last time. Let's see, I have...

Finished the participatory workshops, luckily. I think they went ok, but were a bit stressful. I am no natural facilitator.

Done one of three community studies, which also went well, and was a lot more fun. The farmers I met were all incredibly nice, and I think there are a couple of grains of interesting stuff in the material which hopefully can grow into something more substantial over the next few weeks. One rather interesting thing was that most of the farmers in this group, thanks to joint savings and credit, increased production, and helping each other out, had been able to build brick houses with tin roofs rather than the thin mud/dung/thatch houses many had before. Most of them are sort of in a semi-finished state, without plaster or at least without paint, and looking quite grim (from my perspective) because they finish them incredibly slowly whenever there is money to spare. To me, intuitively, it is a rather strange investment, providing that you had a functional house. Surely there must be “better” things to invest in than oversized (many really are quite large) houses? Then, after thinking that, I have to give myself a small mental slap. Who am I to say what these people should want? Do I know what having a proper house means to people, how it improves their quality of life? Debates about whether the poor can be trusted as “rational” actors in terms of the investments they make I think are often based on some misguided idea about rationality. How many of us consistently use our money in the “best”, most rational way? Of course there are some investments that are more effective for getting out of poverty than others, but it’s all too easy to judge other people when you’ve never been in their shoes.
Narrative walk
 • Attended a watershed management meeting called by the ministry of water and environment, which was fairly interesting, when it wasn’t incredibly tedious (how many times do we have to establish that water important?). For research purposes, it’s always good to move around in different kinds of environments and pick up on the ideas and discourses floating around. Also, the food was good. And I got money for attending, even if I didn’t have any travel costs. It felt a bit weird, but on the other hand I paid the government a hefty fee for a research permit that I have yet to see.

Visited a fellow agroecologist’s farm, which probably crammed in over 50 different species on around 2 acres – from poultry integrated with coffee, macadamia and passion fruits, to a tilapia/catfish/crayfish pond and of course a kitchen garden with more crops than I can remember. Clovis is a rather old man, but very energetic when it comes to farming, and with a refreshing critical mind. I found out when we were leaving that they were burying his brother later that day; I am always baffled by how people here deal with death. Almost every day you hear a story of someone who has died, and not seldom, these stories brings out laughter. It’s all very strange, and somehow tragic, but also somehow healthy)

Small selection of what can be found on Clovis's farm
Lake Saka near FP
Stopped by the “trade show” that’s going on nearby where I live. This is basically a fair where they sell a bunch of stuff (mostly the same stuff they sell everywhere else), but there’s also music performances, some animals from the wildlife center in Entebbe (including a lion and a really creepy ostrich) which I felt rather bad for, games (I threw a ring and won a packet of crackers!), face painting for kids and a carousel that looks very old and rusty. Overall, rather cute!

Trade show, complete with rusty carousel, impala head, and scary ostrich 
Well, that's it I think. This week I visit another community, then it's time for some R&R.